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Monday, May 4, 2009

The Globalist

Last winter a friend of mine found this new boulder close to Helsinki that had an amazing project on it. It's definitely not easy to find lines here that are really hard but still have all the necessary holds. On overhangs the granite often seems to have either big holds or just a blank face. This line was not one of those. I was really stoked to have a project close to my home that was A. really hard, but possible and B. a five star line!


Since January I've been anxious to get on the project, but the weather has not been good. After leaving for Hueco in early February I haven't spent many days back home. Finally after returning from Japan a week ago, I got a change to start working on it, which also meant skipping the World Cup in Hall.


The conditions here have been good for once and I've been able to work on the proj without having to think about the weather. First day on it I managed to do most of the moves except for one or two. The line reminds me of The Island in Fontainebleau, because it has a similar sloper in the crux section, but for the opposite hand. It's not the tallest line but it has around 13 moves. It's all about compression. The whole way you are squeezing the feature on really bad slopers and a tiny crimp.

Second day on it I still could not do the crux move alone. Third day on it I stuck the crux move for the first time! The same day I got the crux crimp from the start twice. Yesterday I went back again. Knowing that I'm flying to Italy on Wednesday I was already planing to fly back to finish the project instead of staying in Switzerland. After a proper warm-up I tried the top part and for the first time I got the heel to stick two times in a row. A couple tries later I stuck the crux crimp from the start. I got the crimp perfect and my heel didn't slip. I just barely made it through each move after the crux, but it was enough to make it to the top!


I named it The Globalist. It took me 4 full sessions of work. My suggestion for the grade is 8B+, but it's definitely a hard one. Possibly the hardest 8B+ I've climbed, but I don't think 8C. I'm quite confused what the standard is? I've climbed some 8B+'s in a day or two that felt like they were a step below this one. And for that matter The Island also took me 4 days, but less work and it's quite comparable in style. But most importantly this is one of my best first ascents: a five star problem with only the necessary holds and very cool moves.

21 comments:

  1. Congrats ! Looks like an amazingly difficult problem haha, keep up the good work !
    Btw, did you climb the sloppy lip that you see on the 1st picture ? Probably not that hard, but it looks like a nice sloppy lip =)

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  2. do you mean the arete on the right side of the picture?

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  3. Actually, both haha ! Here's a picture to show which ones i'm talking about:
    http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/5532/problemsx.jpg

    Do you have any picture of you on these, and any infos on the grades ?

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  4. Previous link didnt work:
    http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/1525/problemsg.jpg

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  5. I climbed the arete on the right. It's called One Love, 7C+. I haven't tried the other one.

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  6. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  7. Nice Nalle. I've never made an FA of a boulder nor route...but I got a good impression of the feeling from reading your blog post. Props man!
    NM

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  8. Click my name link for exclusive video of Nalle sending the new problem. Great work on the FA Nalle, I hope everyone enjoys the video.

    Chuck Fryberger

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  9. Chuck, tried to watch the video but YouTube gives me this error message: "This video is not available in your country."

    Any changes making the video available for Finns, too?

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  10. got the same error in germany.
    o-p

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  11. nice one chuck! your videos just keep getting better!

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  12. seems like "Globalist" is so hard that even opening the video takes some skills. now that I saw it, I gotta say that nalle you got some slick moves going on there :)

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  13. Anonymous6/5/09 00:13

    how can i see the vid from finland?????

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  14. Anonymous6/5/09 01:03

    How did I get rick rolled off a Finnish climbing blog??

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  15. Anonymous6/5/09 02:26

    "This video is not available in your country."... not so Globalist...

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  16. No video footage of this problem exists yet.

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  17. Never Gonna Give You Up... from Rick Astley... Nice humour from Chuck...

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  18. Yo, congrats for the problem. It would be nice to have some info how to get there ;) I guess the best conditions are March/April?
    Cheers,
    JK

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  19. Any other lines on that stone except for those two?

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